Engine, Fuel System, Injector Pump, Tranny, VRV

6.9 or 7.3 IDI Injector Pump (IP) Replacement in a Van

Removing the IP on an IDI Van can be a bit of a chore, but not impossible.  Here is a video of me doing this.

In the video, I talk about some injector line retainer clips that I modified.  I have photos of my modification and a pretty nifty write-up here:

Injector Line Retainer Hack (to keep the nut in place)


No warranty. You are responsible for your vehicle. For novelty use only. Not responsible for anything or anyone. Not responsible for damage to your vehicle, you, or anyone or anything.

Copyright 2000-2018 Nick Pisca 0001D LLC



Chris Armand

Great site..Question Do you think I can replace intake manifold without removing Injection Pump? I know I will have to remove injector lines. I’m putting R&D intake on which incidentally you have to use if you use Justins Turbo pedestal, exhaust manifolds and up pipes.


hmmmm. With the injector lines removed, then I suppose the intake could be slid out the back. IDK.

Since it’s so hard for me to install the injector lines on my IP (in the van), I usually try to keep my IP and injector lines connected as much as possible, since the bottom two lines are such a PITA to tighten down. In order to tighten the bottom two, I almost always have to remove the IP anyway (like the video shows) to hoist the butt of the IP up to access the bottom two lines. So no matter what, in the van, I have to pull the IP when I’m pulling the bottom two injector lines.

Since the IP is so easy to remove (3 nuts and 3 bolts), I’d recommend pulling the IP and injector lines attached, then pull the intake. Just make sure to mark the rotation of the IP on the gear housing with a paint pen, so you can return it to the previous timing.

Janice Bartmess

Hello! I am in awe of you and your website! To me, this is like a dream come true, to find all this information, and best of all, it seems that you are fairly young, so I salute you for your interest in these IDI trucks and vans. I own an ’86 F-250, which I have had for about five yeras now. It has 70K original miles on it.. My husband and I bought it with 35K original miles, one owner. I bought it at auction, but I tracked the original owners down and they explained it all to me, how this happened. They just didn’t use it much.. older couple. But, I love this truck and hope I can get it to run forever. Now, I am just finishing the installation of the IP pump. Got it running now.. just need to find out more about the vacuum regulator valve. I can’t seem to tell the difference one way or the other if it is open or closed, activated or not. This is about the last thing I have to connect, and then it should be done. I just finished installing a new fuel tank selector valve, which is a messy job and should be easier (you would think) but there is a big skid plate protecting the front fuel tank and naturally the last bolt (front passenger side) is really a bear to get to. It’s almost impossible to get to this valve without taking that skid plate off. I did run off the rear tank only when it first failed and I was able to read the fuel level by bridging the last two contacts on the wire plug. I just used a half a paperclip for that, and I bridged the rear and engine fuel lines with a piece of tubing. These are “Bundy” fittings and have O rings in them, much like “John Guest” fittings used in food supply. You don’t need a tool to take them off.. They just pull off once you remove the plastic clip, which is really not very critical at all and usually breaks anyway. I did discover that if your fuel tank selector valve gets stuck, it will probably remain on the one tank and you can just run on that, but, in an emergency, you can use a section of fiberglass fishing pole if you figure out exactly where to cut it. I used an inexpensive caliper from Harbor Freight, but you might also be able to eyeball it. The fishing rod tapers and fiberglass is fuel tolerant, but you have to cut in just the right spot.. Too large or too small will not fit. I do not recommend cutting the Bundy tube ends. You will have nothing but headaches. And, they are rigid, so you cannot kink them or clamp them.. You have to have some clean buckets or plastic trash can to catch your fuel. Messy, but that’s the way it is. Catch the fuel and siphon it back in when you are done by placing the buckets in the bed of the truck or on a ladder or something and gravity will help you. Since it is so difficult to bleed your lines if you run out of fuel, you really need to bridge the contacts to the fuel gauge from whatever tank you are running on, so you know what you have.
Well, thank you for sharing so much information. You are an automotive engineer at heart!


Thanks so much for your thorough and detailed comment. It’s comments like yours that makes me happy to keep this website running. Everyone learning from each other, exchanging ideas and tips, and helping each other out.

As for your Vacuum Regulator Valve, you will need to check the vacuum pressure with a gauge. Here is a write-up on how to calibrate and test it. If you want, you can send me the VRV to test it for a $42 fee. If there are any broken parts, I can also give you an estimate on rebuilding it. 🙂

That fuel selector valve is a messy job. that’s for sure. I did that a long time ago before I made this site. I wish I had taken some pictures because it would be a great tutorial for others. Thanks again for your engagement and I’m looking forward to your future comments.


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