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1998 VW Jetta TDI VO Conversion Installation Thread         Return to Main Page

Dual Tank System                                                                      < 1  2  3  4  5 >

WVO & SVO Compatible

Design and Installation:  Nick Pisca, July 2007

 

 

Initial Installation Progress:

 

Some advice for those who want to remove the plastic bumper cover:  (I have a Chilton manual and it didn’t cover this trick.)

Remove all five fender bolts underneath the car and slide metal strips inside the rear inner fenders.  Then pull the bumper cover back away from the front of the car to get it off.  Don’t pull up or down, for VW designed a slider to manage the connection.

 

 

Bumper Cover Removal.

BUMPER COVER REMOVED:

In the image above, you can see the slider mount in the triangular space behind the driver’s side rear tire.  It’s about the size of a deck of cards.

 

 

Trunk Floor Before Conversion.

Underneath Trunk Before Conversion.

Custom Tank Obstacles.  Requires Demolition prior to Installation.

POTENTIAL AREAS OF CONFLICT:

In order to obtain tank capacities of over ten gallons (37.8 liters), there would have to be some demolition to the car.  These would be in inconspicuous areas.  Also, obviously there would have to be a hole through the trunk for filling and mounting would come from the vertical webs surrounding the tank.  My intuition would suggest that this mounting technique would work better than thru-bolting through the trunk floor, to minimize deformation of the trunk metal and/or pulling through.  Also, a more experience mechanic my use the mounting areas for the diesel tank, for they are far thicker and made for supporting heavy tanks.  But I wanted to align my driver’s side strap with the to-be-removed bumper cover flange, so that this strap would play a dual role:  to support the tank and replace the flange connection.

 

 

Bumper Cover Flange, Before Removal.

BUMPER COVER FLANGE:

This is the existing bumper cover flange that needs to be removed if you want to use a tank longer than 23.5 inches. 

I used a reciprocating saw the tore out the trapezoidal web.  But after pulling that out, I realized that this flange is held in by two pop-rivets.  (see image below)

 

 

Flange Removed.

Fuel Nozzle Hole.

Nozzle Hole Location.

NOZZLE HOLE:

The location of the nozzle hole was a sort of guess at first.  I tried to correspond it to the dimension on my tank specs, but due to the fact that it may not nest exactly in the corners, it may not fit correctly.  I picked a point that was a happy medium and it set perfectly on the first attempt.  I don’t have Dimensions P or Q on me right now, but I can post that later.

Also, in this image and previous pics I mention the ‘Side Obstruction.’  This is the slight bend in the body to the passenger-side direction of the nozzle hole.  I didn’t see this when I initially measured for the tank, but this obstruction is a curved piece of metal that needs to be cut back to accommodate the tank.  You can see I made two simple cuts with the saw that allowed me to pry back the metal.  It doesn’t need to be removed, but just out of the way.

 

 

Bumper Removed and Tank almost Installed.

Tank Supported by Wood until Fastened to Body.

SECONDARY TANK INSTALLATION:

Eventually it got easier to work on this if I ripped off the bumper itself.  It’s very easy to do and requires the removal of just four nuts. 

I have a tracing of the tank straps if anyone wants to copy them exactly.  They are just cut from three foot 1/8 inch thick aluminum strips from B & B Hardware.  I bent them around a steel pole near my work area and thru-bolted them into the trunk web and body.  Also, you may need to flip back the top at a 45 degree angle for a half-inch (you can see it at the top of the strap in the image above.)  This will keep the end from scratching the paint off and there is a slight angle to the body that requires a kick-back.

When this photo was taken, I was about to install the second aluminum tank strap.  This strap requires some careful placement, because it will be supporting the tank and connecting to the bumper cover (where the flange used to reside).

Be sure to align it with the existing bumper cover connection – you’ll see further down the thread, but I was off by an inch and had to re-drill a new cover hole.

 

 

Bumper and Bumper Cover reinstalled.  Tank completed.

BUMPER AND COVER REINSTALLED:

I replaced the bumper cover and it looks as good as new.  My neighbors said they didn’t even notice a new tank was there.

 

 

Space between Secondary Tank, Diesel Tank and Spare Tire Location.

Space between Secondary Tank, Diesel Tank and Spare Tire Location.

HOTFOX INSTALLATION:

One thing to note:  Make sure to install your HotFox before mounting the tank.  I thought I could just slide it in after the tank was set, but my bumper cover got in the way.  It was a pain in the ass, but if you just pull some of the bolts on the passenger side of the bumper cover, you can slide the plastic far enough up to pass the HotFox though. 

Part of the reason for the horizontal mount was to have the option to drain the tank if necessary.  I can pull the HotFox out, but because of this obstacle, it will just slide up to the bumper cover. 

Also, I had to redrill my HotFox mount holes, because I specified a small dimension for fabrication. 

 

 

Replacement Connection for the removal of the Bumper Cover Flange

LOCATION OF NEW BUMPER COVER CONNECTION:

As I mentioned before, I tried aligning the new cover connection to the old flange location, but was off by an inch.  I was able to re-drill the hole and use an over-sized fender washer to evenly distribute the load over the plastic.  Since it was much closer to the edge of the plastic, I didn’t want to risk any tearing during driving.

 

 

Space for Heat Exchanger, Filter Head, and Fuel Pump.

This space looks deceptively larger than I expected. J 

 

 

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[c] 2007 Nick Pisca . www.nickpisca.com/wvo . Waste Vegetable Oil Awareness and Travel . www.nickpisca.com