{"id":738,"date":"2018-07-09T21:48:04","date_gmt":"2018-07-10T04:48:04","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/?p=738"},"modified":"2018-06-16T23:14:49","modified_gmt":"2018-06-17T06:14:49","slug":"1980s-ford-blinker-turn-signal-assembly-and-ignition-tumbler-replacement","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/electrical\/1980s-ford-blinker-turn-signal-assembly-and-ignition-tumbler-replacement\/","title":{"rendered":"1980’s Ford Blinker (Turn Signal) Assembly and Ignition Tumbler Replacement"},"content":{"rendered":"

It finally happened. My ignition switch (aka tumbler) finally went to hell. I knew it was coming a year ago, because my alternate keys wouldn’t fit as well as the original.\u00a0 Over the last year, it got harder and harder put the key in without some sort of voodoo ritual or prayer to Prometheus to ensure the van would start.\u00a0 Last Wednesday, after an important meeting, I hopped in the beast and the key didn’t fit.\u00a0 It was finally time to replace the tumbler.<\/p>\n

Last year, when my ignition started acting up, my friend recommended I pick up a spare ignition for the “inevitable.” I had the spare switch sitting in a box in the back of the van.\u00a0 I didn’t want to swap it out right then in there, parked on a residential street in Westwood, so I tried to figure out a way to get it started.\u00a0 I basically wedged a folding knife in the tumbler to move the broken pieces of metal out of the way.\u00a0 Then I was able to get the key to fit in and turn.\u00a0 Without hesitation, I drove the van home asap, just in case the ignition opened the circuit and left me stranded on the streets of Los Angeles.\u00a0 Luckily, I got home AOK.<\/p>\n

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Replacing the ignition switch isn’t the hardest job in the world, so I figured while I had the steering column apart, I could also replace my long-broken blinker switch (aka “turn signal switch”).\u00a0 I kind of hated telling co-drivers to “hold the turn signal on” because they never locked into the proper position.\u00a0 Even though I’ve put in so much work into this IDI van for a half decade, nothing screamed “lame” like a poorly-functioning steering and blinker system.\u00a0 Maybe I could spruce up the user-experience on this 31-year-old Ford.\u00a0 Also, while I had it apart, I figured I could also investigate why my tilt-wheel mechanism wasn’t functioning too.<\/p>\n

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Pictured above, the “turn signal switch” is an underwhelming name for what it really does.\u00a0 It’s better described as a Steering Column Electrical Hub, because it controls the horn\/cruise control electrical slider contacts, ignition sensor electrical connections, hazard light control, blinker handle receiver, and tilt-wheel mechanism.\u00a0 It also has the light bulb and retainer for the transmission arm indicator, and also a pigtail that mounts at the base of the steering column.\u00a0 It’s a rather extensive electrical assembly.<\/p>\n

The official Motorcraft part number for this is the #E4UZ13341D. I didn’t even bother with calling the Ford Stealerships about obtaining this because it would likely be more valuable than a few ounces of gold.\u00a0 I bought the 1S1092 Airtex, because it received better reviews than the other two assemblies.\u00a0 According to several auto parts sites, my 1988 E250 Diesel was only compatible with the OE PRO SM65F or the Standard Motor Products DS1306.\u00a0 The only reason why I opted to go with the Airtex was because someone on a diesel forum vouched for its efficacy.\u00a0 Spoiler alert: it worked for my vehicle as well.<\/p>\n

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Since the vast majority of Ford, Lincoln, and Mercury vehicles from the late 70’s and throughout the 80’s had this identical steering column, it’s safe to assume that this installation methodology should work across most platforms, with some minor changes in customization.<\/p>\n

Here’s the video of me ripping this crap apart.\u00a0 Enjoy:<\/p>\n