Next, you want to jack up the van on four jackstands. \u00a0Due to the overwhelming weight of the engine, if you try to pull the engine, the suspension will rise with it. \u00a0Eventually you will be at the top of your shop crane capacity. \u00a0It is best to extend the suspension prior to the engine extraction. \u00a0Disconnect the battery terminals.<\/p>\n
Also, due to the small size of the engine bay on an Econoline van, it will be hard to pull the engine without pulling stuff off the top of the intake manifold. \u00a0There are two ways to do this:<\/p>\n
1.) Pull the injector pump, injector lines, and air cleaner box \/ turbo assembly, or<\/p>\n
2) Jack the body up off the frame a few inches.<\/p>\n
This article will focus the second method.<\/strong> \u00a0This allows for the engine to keep the IP in place, which means the engine will not need to be timed later. \u00a0Jacking the body up off the frame is a great trick. \u00a0It affords you the extra few inches to just barely clear the injector lines from the underside of the engine bay ceiling, while just barely clearing the oil pan and front frame cross member.<\/p>\n Depending on your engine, you need to remove some parts. \u00a0For most IDI Vans, you likely have a 6.9 or 7.3 “N.A” (Naturally Aspirated) intake system. \u00a0This means you have the conventional saucer-shaped air filter box, CDR adapter, and plastic air supply hose. \u00a0These need to be removed to make room for the shop crane to raise the engine off its mounts. \u00a0For this tutorial, this van has the rare Banks IDI turbo system. \u00a0It is unlikely your engine will have the turbo system, but the majority of this article will still apply for your needs. \u00a0If you have a turbo system, you need to remove anything that is on top and at the rear of the engine intake system.<\/p>\n This van has the rare 6.9 IDI Banks Van Turbo kit installed. It will need to be removed to allow room for the engine extraction. If your engine is non-turbo (N.A.), you can still use this tutorial to pull the engine.<\/p><\/div>\n Undo the exhaust pipes and anything connected to the exhaust system at the manifolds. \u00a0Undo the vacuum hose from the vacuum pump. \u00a0Take off the alternator and AC Compressor. \u00a0Disconnect the engine electrical connectors on the IP, engine bay, and elsewhere. \u00a0Remove the diesel filter head on top of the intake. \u00a0Disconnect the steel fuel lines on the lift pump and return line at the back of the engine. \u00a0Disconnect the power steering pump lines from the reservoir and unit. \u00a0Disconnect the engine grounds. \u00a0Disconnect the tranny lines and remove them, so they do not get pinched when pulling the engine.<\/p>\n Drain all fluids from the vehicle. \u00a0Be sure to remove the coolant from the block using this fun method<\/a>. \u00a0Remove the oil filter, because the engine will NOT clear the crossmember with a big oil filter still attached. \u00a0Also, undo the starter and set it aside.<\/p>\n Next you need to separate the tranny from the engine. \u00a0Some claim you can pull the engine and tranny in one piece, but I highly recommend you separate them. \u00a0The Econoline engine bay is TINY relative to the enormous size of the IDI. \u00a0Before you start unbolting the tranny, you should undo the bottom fly-wheel cover and gain access to the torque converter nuts. \u00a0There are 4 nuts to undo. \u00a0Using a 15\/16th’s deep-well socket on a breaker bar, rotate the engine 90 degrees at a time to position the flywheel and torque converter at the bottom. \u00a0Undo the nut and rotate it ninety degrees again. \u00a0Continue until all nuts are removed. \u00a0DO NOT undo the tranny from the block yet.<\/p>\n Remove the grill and top core support from the front. \u00a0Pull the radiator, AC condenser (if your vehicle had air conditioning installed), and transmission cooler (if your vehicle had a tranny cooler) from the front of the vehicle.<\/p>\n Down by where the radiator was near the frame are two extremely long bolts that connect the body to the frame. \u00a0There are also two more long bolts under the carpet near where your feet rest at the front two seats. \u00a0Undo these bolts so that you\u00a0can jack up the body up off the frame a little bit. \u00a0Wedge a pry bar in between the frame and body, and squeeze in a block. \u00a0I used a 2×2 on top of the body mount to raise it up.<\/p>\n Your IDI engine should have engine pulling loops attached to the intake manifold. \u00a0Remount these to the two middle spots in the intake.<\/p>\n Next, you will have to improvise a bit. \u00a0This is not recommended.<\/strong> \u00a0In order to lift the engine, you will need to modify the shop crane to have a 1\/2″ thick piece of notched plate steel bolted to the top, so that the chain is not dangling underneath. \u00a0This allows you to lift the engine with almost zero clearance.<\/p>\n Jack up the shop crane so that it puts a little tension on the engine. \u00a0Do NOT lift it up yet.<\/p>\n Put another jack under the transmission and use a block of wood to distribute the load of the transmission so you don’t punch a hole in the pan. \u00a0BE SURE YOU ARE PUTTING THIS OTHER JACK UNDER THE TRANNY PAN, and not the engine pan. \u00a0Undo the tranny nuts and bolts, but keep the transmission on the crossmember. Later, you will move the transmission back an inch, so a typical floor jack with casters is a prudent choice over a bottle jack. \u00a0A transmission jack would be ideal, but who honestly has a tranny jack laying around.<\/p>\n Undo the motor mount bolts and nuts on each side of the block. \u00a0Do not undo motor mount bolts unless the shop crane and transmission jack are supporting the engine.<\/p>\n Jack up the transmission until it is supported. \u00a0Remove the driveshaft. \u00a0Then undo the 6 transmission bolts connecting the block. \u00a0Push the transmission back (toward the rear) an inch. \u00a0If it doesn’t separate, then use a pry bar or crowbar. \u00a0Do not separate your transmission from underneath. \u00a0Do it from the doghouse, because the engine could easily crush you.<\/p>\n Return to the front of the vehicle and begin jacking up shop crane.<\/p>\n You will need to raise up the engine enough for the four motor mount studs to exit the frame crossmember slots. \u00a0Be careful. \u00a0I damaged my valve cover because it was scratching the side of the doghouse opening.<\/p>\n As you raise it up, you will need to keep moving the engine forward. \u00a0It is a TIGHT fit.<\/p>\n Gradually, it will clear the bottom crossmember, but just barely.<\/p>\n Watch your IP gear housing cover and your IP and injector lines. \u00a0As you raise the engine up, the shop crane boom will get closer and closer to the top of the engine. \u00a0I ended up bending my timing advance bracket on my IP by accident using this method, but when I pulled my other 7.3 engine a year later, I remembered this issue and was more careful.<\/p>\n After a lot of sweating, grunting, and screaming, I got the engine pulled out of the bay. \u00a0I was able to accomplish this all on my own, without an assistant.<\/p>\n Once out of the vehicle, be sure to find a 2-ton engine stand for your block. \u00a0A flimsy standard stand will not work. \u00a0Also, find an engine stand with brackets that are longer than 4 inches<\/strong>. \u00a0This is hard to find. \u00a0You need longer brackets because the flywheel is so large. \u00a0I ended up just buying some scrap steel square tube, and using some high quality Grade 8 steel bolts.<\/p>\n![\"\"](\"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/IMG_2597sfw.jpg\")
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