![\"\"](\"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/03\/20180125_101616sfw2.jpg\")
<\/p>\nI got a ’94 IDI non-turbo van engine that had some weird squeak when it ran.\u00a0 A different shop ripped it apart and found the 8th cylinder delaying when the flywheel was turned.\u00a0\u00a0I also had an ’88 IDI Hypermax turbo van engine that might have a cracked block.\u00a0 Here are the photos showcasing the tear down of the ’88 IDI.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
I mounted the ’88 on the stand and started ripping it apart.<\/p>\n
Here’s the status of the engine:<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
![\"\"](\"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/03\/20180124_164855sfw.jpg\")
<\/p>\n
![\"\"](\"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/03\/20180125_101700sfw2.jpg\")
<\/p>\n
![\"\"](\"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/03\/20180124_164922sfw.jpg\")
<\/p>\n
![\"Photo](\"https:\/\/cimg0.ibsrv.net\/gimg\/www.ford-trucks.com-vbulletin\/900x600\/80-img_3012_016bbe18e55433f0e2b30a61ac9fc2721686af6b.jpg\")
<\/a>Photo of this engine in the van engine bay, looking through the doghouse.<\/p><\/div>\n
Pretty standard.\u00a0 Probably the only thing that should would spark anyone’s interest is where the CDR is.\u00a0 One the Hypermax, they remove the CDR from the intake and valley pan, and replace it with a stopper in the back of the intake manifold.\u00a0 You can see the Hypermax stopper in the image (taken in at the head gasket job<\/a>) to the right:<\/p>\n Also, the injectors were already taken out and archived in a box.\u00a0 \u00a0Before taking the IP off, I undid the injector lines.\u00a0 In hindsight, I should have left them attached; the bottom two injector lines are notoriously difficult to refasten, so I should have left them in place.\u00a0 Oh well.\u00a0 The IP is easy to remove, just undo the gear house front plate, and undo the three 5\/16″ 12-point bolts on the inside.<\/p>\n Oh, I forgot to mention I drained the engine oil and pulled the oil filter before documenting this.<\/p>\n I ripped off the exhaust manifolds<\/p>\n Next I removed my spiffy ARP stud aeronautical covers from McMaster Carr<\/a>.\u00a0 I highly recommend using these to protect the ends of your head studs.<\/p>\n Next, I unbolted the Intake Manifold.<\/p>\n I marked down the lengths of the intake bolts so I could remember which went where.\u00a0 But if I forgot, I could always just look at the height of the intake holes, and get the jist of their locations.<\/p>\n Next is the valve covers.\u00a0 For the most part, VC bolts are the same, except for studs used to hold stuff.\u00a0 On the van, there are things like the oil and tranny dipstick tubes that are fastened to a bracket connected the passenger side VC studs.\u00a0 And every vehicle type is different.<\/p>\n I pulled the oil dipstick tube out.\u00a0 It had connected to an exhaust manifold stud, but the tube itself had a seal that held it in place.\u00a0 I just pulled it straight out and cleaned up the inlet.<\/p>\n Here’s the condition of the engine with the intake, VC’s, and EM’s off.<\/p>\n The rockers look ok.<\/p>\n I pulled off the t-stat housing.\u00a0 Ugh.\u00a0 I’ve done that a gazillion times when I had the oil-in-coolant issue.\u00a0 I tossed the t-stat inside it, because I’m confident its coated in oil.<\/p>\n I then carefully pulled the valley pan.\u00a0 Most people throw these away because they are such thin metal, it is hard to remove them without permanent damage to them.\u00a0 I want to reuse this one at some point, so I’m super careful to extract if.<\/p>\n Next I pulled the rockers out pair-by-pair, marked them, and carefully stored them in a box for future reinstallation.<\/p>\n I pulled the push rods, labeled them, and skewered them in a box to make sure they didn’t get mixed up.<\/p>\n Next, I unscrewed the head stud nuts.<\/p>\n and the studs…<\/p>\n I cleaned and stored my ARP studs.\u00a0 I have been told I can reuse these expensive fasteners up to three times, so I’m not going to waste them.<\/p>\n Once the nuts and studs were gone, I used a screwdriver on the side to pry up the heads off the gaskets.\u00a0 I only pried it from the metal OUTSIDE of the gasket mating surfaces.\u00a0 Prying on the block or head decks will ruin them for good.<\/p>\n One of the studs was a PITA.\u00a0 It took some elbow grease to extract.<\/p>\n The condition of the heads looked pretty good.\u00a0 (I would later find out that the HG surface came off without any real work or scraping)<\/p>\n Picture from a few days later after I cleaned off the head gasket material from the cylinder head deck.<\/p><\/div>\n Then I moved on to the waterpump.\u00a0 There are many bolts in this area and on the front plate.\u00a0 If you forgot which bolts go where, you can find the waterpump bolt information on this brilliant thread<\/a>.<\/p>\n Next, I removed the main pulley and harmonic balancer.<\/p>\n There is a lot more detailed information on the removal (and reinstallation) of the Harmonic Balancer here:<\/p>\n 6.9 \/ 7.3 IDI Harmonic Balancer (Vibration Damper) Replacement Process<\/a><\/p><\/blockquote>\n\u00a0Then I removed the 9\/16″ nuts on the back side of the gear housing.\u00a0 With the nuts removed, the IP slides straight back toward the rear of the engine.<\/p>\n<\/p>\n<\/p>\n<\/p>\n<\/p>\n<\/p>\n<\/p>\n<\/p>\n<\/p>\n<\/p>\n<\/p>\n<\/p>\n<\/p>\n<\/p>\n<\/p>\n<\/p>\n<\/p>\n<\/p>\n<\/p>\n<\/p>\n<\/p>\n<\/p>\n<\/p>\n<\/p>\n