{"id":119,"date":"2018-02-05T17:26:53","date_gmt":"2018-02-06T01:26:53","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/?p=119"},"modified":"2018-03-12T16:28:36","modified_gmt":"2018-03-12T23:28:36","slug":"7-3-idi-crank-rod-bearing-crisis","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/engine\/7-3-idi-crank-rod-bearing-crisis\/","title":{"rendered":"7.3 IDI Crank-Rod Bearing Crisis"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>A while back, I got a spare 7.3 IDI engine out of a 1994 U-haul van.\u00a0 It was a really good deal, because the PO had a shop pull the engine, determine the problem, and get a repair estimate.\u00a0 The problem for him, the estimate was in the thousands of dollars.\u00a0 He needed the van, engine, and tranny gone ASAP, so he sold the pieces for whatever he could get, because the shop didn&#8217;t have space for his oversized paperweight.<\/p>\n<p>I bought the engine without knowing the origin of the problem.\u00a0 All the mechanics told me was the 7th piston was delayed when he turned the flexplate.\u00a0 I got the beast home, along with various other IDI parts (always be scavenging!), and put the block on a spare engine stand.\u00a0 I needed a decent block, because my original 1988 7.3 IDI had some kind of crack in the block that was pushing oil in the coolant.\u00a0 My plan was to combine all the &#8220;good&#8221; parts from both engines and make one rebuilt IDI for the van.<\/p>\n<p><em>Investigation:<\/em><\/p>\n<p>Eventually, I got a moment to extract the oil pan and investigate the source.\u00a0 Here&#8217;s a video of the clunking:<\/p>\n<p><iframe loading=\"lazy\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/9yPG0GzirOc?feature=oembed\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"autoplay; encrypted-media\" allowfullscreen><\/iframe><\/p>\n<p>As you can see from the video, the rod bearing on the left-side journal is clearly failing.\u00a0 But how bad?\u00a0 I pulled off the rod caps to check it out.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180123_104153sfw.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-121\" src=\"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180123_104153sfw.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"720\" height=\"460\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180123_104153sfw.jpg 720w, https:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180123_104153sfw-300x192.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 720px) 100vw, 720px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Immediately pulling the rod cap off, I realize there is a major issue.\u00a0 As far as I could tell, there was NO bearing in the cavity.\u00a0 Also, the rod cap is scratched to hell, and this is supposed to be a smooth surface.\u00a0 I turn my attention to the crankshaft journal:<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180123_104203sfw.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-122\" src=\"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180123_104203sfw.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"720\" height=\"405\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180123_104203sfw.jpg 720w, https:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180123_104203sfw-300x169.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 720px) 100vw, 720px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>OUCH!\u00a0 Not only is the crankshaft journal totally scratched up, but there appears to be a worn-down bearing wedged in the cavity that looks paper-thin.\u00a0 I had to pull the other rod cap on the same journal because it was so deformed, it curve into the space between the rods.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180123_105344sfw.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-123\" src=\"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180123_105344sfw.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"640\" height=\"655\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180123_105344sfw.jpg 640w, https:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180123_105344sfw-293x300.jpg 293w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>When you compare the two rod caps and compare the two sides of the crank journal, you&#8217;ll see this is a bad situation.\u00a0 If you look close enough, you can visibly see a depression on the worn side of the journal.\u00a0 This basically means the crankshaft is garbage, because even though the crank can be reground in 0.010 inch increments, this is far beyond the standard grinding specifications.<\/p>\n<p><em>Comparison:<\/em><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180123_105334sfw.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-124\" src=\"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180123_105334sfw.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"720\" height=\"615\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180123_105334sfw.jpg 720w, https:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180123_105334sfw-300x256.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 720px) 100vw, 720px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>In the image above, the left picture shows a healthy bearing and rod cap.\u00a0 For the 7.3 IDI, the caps bearings are approximately an eighth of an inch thick.\u00a0 On the right, the bearing has completely worn down to nothing.\u00a0 In the image below, the left side was the worn bearing.\u00a0 On the right side of the journal, you can see proper oil lubrication and a smooth journal finish.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180123_105400sfw.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-125\" src=\"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180123_105400sfw.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"502\" height=\"720\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180123_105400sfw.jpg 502w, https:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180123_105400sfw-209x300.jpg 209w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 502px) 100vw, 502px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><em>Tear down.<\/em><\/p>\n<p>Since the crankshaft is totally shot, I&#8217;m going to continue with my plan to use this block and combine the best parts from both 7.3 engines.\u00a0 If I have to pull the crank out of this block, that means I need to undo all the crank bearing caps, rods, and remove all the pistons.\u00a0 Basically, aside from undoing the camshaft and it&#8217;s components, I&#8217;m stripping this down to the block.<\/p>\n<blockquote><p>NOTE: The PO&#8217;s mechanics has already removed the heads, valley pan, <a href=\"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/engine\/6-9-7-3-idi-harmonic-balancer-vibration-damper-replacement-process\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">harmonic balancer<\/a>, and other components.\u00a0 It was just a block (without heads), with the flywheel (for the E4OD), oil pan, oil pump, and cam components.\u00a0 I won&#8217;t be detailing how to remove these components in this article, but I will have a separate article showing how to remove and install <a href=\"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/engine\/6-9-7-3-idi-harmonic-balancer-vibration-damper-replacement-process\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">the harmonic balancer<\/a>, and another detailing the teardown process of the 1988 7.3 IDI van engine.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p>First I undid the flexplate (a flywheel for an auto transmission) for the E40D tranny from the 1994 7.3.\u00a0 It is mounted directly to the rear of the crankshaft with 8 bolts.\u00a0 There 9 holes (one hole is used to line up the flexplate).<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180127_151658sfw.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-127\" src=\"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180127_151658sfw.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"478\" height=\"720\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180127_151658sfw.jpg 478w, https:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180127_151658sfw-199x300.jpg 199w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 478px) 100vw, 478px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Unlike <a href=\"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/engine\/6-9-7-3-idi-harmonic-balancer-vibration-damper-replacement-process\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">the harmonic balancer<\/a>, I didn&#8217;t need a special puller to remove the flexplate.\u00a0 Just slid a 3\/8&#8243; drive long extension in one of the torque converter access holes, and unscrewed the bolts with a pry bar.\u00a0 However, behind the E4OD flexplate, there is a half-inch thick spacer between the plate and the crankshaft.\u00a0 (NOTE: the C6 transmission has a different space and flexplate, which will be detailed in a future post on this site.)\u00a0 It is solidly attached to the crankshaft, so at first, I was convinced it was one solid piece combined with the crank.\u00a0 However, with some wiggling and tapping with a rubber mallet, I was able to wiggle off the spacer from the crankshaft.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180127_153146sfw.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-128\" src=\"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180127_153146sfw.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"720\" height=\"458\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180127_153146sfw.jpg 720w, https:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180127_153146sfw-300x191.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 720px) 100vw, 720px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Once the E4OD flexplate and spacer is removed, I can remove the rod bearing caps, rods, and pistons from the chambers.\u00a0 One by one, I remove the rod caps, and carefully take note of each rod and rod cap label.\u00a0 Just in case you do not know, each rod and rod cap has its respective label on one side of the rod.\u00a0 These components are married, and caution should be taken to make sure these parts are not mixed with other pieces.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180126_141850sfw.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-132\" src=\"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180126_141850sfw.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"720\" height=\"438\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180126_141850sfw.jpg 720w, https:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180126_141850sfw-300x183.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 720px) 100vw, 720px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Unscrew the 12-point nuts retaining the rod caps in place.\u00a0 There should be a thin washer installed with these.\u00a0 If not, then whoever rebuilt this engine didn&#8217;t properly secure the rod caps.\u00a0 The cap will likely not just &#8220;come apart.&#8221;\u00a0 They fit snuggly with the bolts on the rod (they taper to &#8220;receive&#8221; the cap holes), and it takes a bit of work to finagle them apart.\u00a0 Resist the urge to wedge a straight edge or blade in between the members, because you might inadvertently damage the rod bolts.<\/p>\n<p>Once both caps are uninstalled, you should be able to push the pistons out of the top of the block.\u00a0 If you haven&#8217;t <a href=\"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/engine\/1988-e250-van-7-3-idi-head-gasket-job-without-pulling-the-engine\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">removed your cylinder heads yet, you might want to bone up on my other post discussing that here<\/a>.\u00a0 You will need to remove your heads if you want to pull the rods out.\u00a0 If you are confident that your pistons and rings are in good condition, then you should be able to push the pistons up to the top of the cylinder and keep the rod bolts out of the way of your crankshaft.\u00a0 A trick I learned on the net to protect your crankshaft from incidental scratching from the rod bolts is to slide on some fuel hose sections on the threads.\u00a0 I am not convinced my piston rings are in good condition (contrary to the confidence of the PO), so\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/engine\/7-3-idi-piston-ring-gap-measurement-custom-grinding-and-proper-installation\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">I removed my pistons and rings and inspected them with the proper measuring equipment<\/a>.\u00a0 That won&#8217;t be included in this article, but it is detailed in this dedicated post:<\/p>\n<blockquote data-secret=\"FWXnGg82C1\" class=\"wp-embedded-content\"><p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/engine\/7-3-idi-piston-ring-gap-measurement-custom-grinding-and-proper-installation\/\">7.3 IDI Piston Ring Gap Measurement, Custom Grinding, and Proper Installation<\/a><\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p><iframe class=\"wp-embedded-content\" sandbox=\"allow-scripts\" security=\"restricted\" style=\"position: absolute; clip: rect(1px, 1px, 1px, 1px);\" src=\"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/engine\/7-3-idi-piston-ring-gap-measurement-custom-grinding-and-proper-installation\/embed\/#?secret=FWXnGg82C1\" data-secret=\"FWXnGg82C1\" width=\"600\" height=\"338\" title=\"&#8220;7.3 IDI Piston Ring Gap Measurement, Custom Grinding, and Proper Installation&#8221; &#8212; IDI Online\" frameborder=\"0\" marginwidth=\"0\" marginheight=\"0\" scrolling=\"no\"><\/iframe><\/p>\n<p>Once the pistons and rods are removed, I have the room to undo the crankshaft bearing caps and bolts, to extract the crankshaft.\u00a0 In the image below, I have highlighted in red the identifier numbers for each of the crank main bearing caps.\u00a0 The 7.3 IDI has 5 main bearing caps, and all of them are numbered in order from 1 to 5 from the front to the rear of the engine.\u00a0 There is a chevron adjacent to each number to help the mechanic properly orient his\/her main caps to the front of the engine.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180128_110711sfw.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-large wp-image-131\" src=\"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180128_110711sfw-1024x550.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"640\" height=\"344\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180128_110711sfw-1024x550.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180128_110711sfw-300x161.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180128_110711sfw-768x412.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180128_110711sfw.jpg 1080w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180128_114815sfw.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignright wp-image-145\" src=\"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180128_114815sfw.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"352\" height=\"198\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180128_114815sfw.jpg 720w, https:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180128_114815sfw-300x169.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 352px) 100vw, 352px\" \/><\/a>I have also highlighted (in green) the oil pump nozzle retention stud located on the #3 Main Bearing Cap.\u00a0 Make sure to note this location for future use so it can reinstalled in the proper position.\u00a0 It can be difficult to extract the bearing caps because they wedge into the block.\u00a0 I used a small screwdriver (image to the right) at the ends of the caps, where there is a notch that allows a bit of prying action to be performed.<\/p>\n<p>Below, my bearings are clearing overly worn.\u00a0 This usually happens when the bearing sizes were installed incorrectly.\u00a0 Bearings that are too small lead to a larger gap and the oil pressure is not great enough to reach all the proper lubrication surfaces.\u00a0 Bearings that are too large squeeze down on the crankshaft journals, and don&#8217;t allow any oil to lubricate the proper surfaces.\u00a0 My bet is the PO didn&#8217;t measure the journals properly and put in &#8220;Standard&#8221; size bearings where &#8220;0.010&#8221; undersize should have been in place.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180128_115326sfw.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-134\" src=\"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180128_115326sfw.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"492\" height=\"720\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180128_115326sfw.jpg 492w, https:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180128_115326sfw-205x300.jpg 205w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 492px) 100vw, 492px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180130_105807sfw.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\" wp-image-139 alignright\" src=\"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180130_105807sfw.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"209\" height=\"152\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180130_105807sfw.jpg 720w, https:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180130_105807sfw-300x219.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 209px) 100vw, 209px\" \/><\/a>The #3 Main Bearing cap has an odd shaped bearing.\u00a0 It has two semi-circular flanges that wrap the sides of the main cap.\u00a0 These are called Thrust Bearings (image to the right) that resist the front-to-back movement of the crankshaft from the action of the torque converter and transmission.\u00a0 When reinstalling this thrust bearing, you need to use <a href=\"https:\/\/www.amazon.com\/Hotop-Blades-Feeler-Imperial-Measuring\/dp\/B06XHXJG31\/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1517890108&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=feeler+gauge+set&amp;psc=1\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">feeler gauges<\/a> to ensure there is a small clearance between the crankshaft counterweights and the #3 main cap thrust bearing.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180201_163250.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignright wp-image-141\" src=\"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180201_163250.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"211\" height=\"139\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180201_163250.jpg 720w, https:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180201_163250-300x198.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 211px) 100vw, 211px\" \/><\/a>Also, on the main bearings, the bearings in the cap are called the &#8220;Lower&#8221; bearings and the bearings in the block are called the &#8220;Upper&#8221; bearings.\u00a0 Upper Bearings have a hole and channel to allow for crankcase oil to flow from the galleys through the hole and into the channel to lubricate the crankshaft journal while the engine is running.\u00a0 It is imperative that recognizing this difference is crucial for allowing engine oil to reach proper areas.<\/p>\n<p><em>Ordering Replacement Bearings<\/em><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Something I wish someone had told me when I first started doing this type of work was: <em>Check the back of the bearings to get the size you need to order<\/em>.\u00a0 When I was researching how to measure and install new crankshaft bearings, most tutorials showed how to check your existing or newly-installed bearings for the proper clearances.\u00a0 But, <em>they never talk about how do you buy the correct size bearings<\/em>\u00a0to start the job!\u00a0 So once you pull the bearings from your caps and block, mark them so you know where they came from, and then read the back of the metal.\u00a0 There should be impressed text telling you important information:<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180130_093738sfw.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-142 alignright\" src=\"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180130_093738sfw.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"352\" height=\"332\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180130_093738sfw.jpg 480w, https:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180130_093738sfw-300x283.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 352px) 100vw, 352px\" \/><\/a>Most bearings have the date they were manufactured, the size (to be explained below), its &#8220;upper&#8221; and &#8220;lower&#8221; configuration designation, and its part number.\u00a0 Also, they have a key that allows you to orient the bearing in the proper direction in the cavity.\u00a0 Since it takes time to order and deliver these bearings, the moment you take the bearings out of the block, you should look at the &#8220;size&#8221; on the back and order a set of Main Bearings and Rod Bearings ASAP.<\/p>\n<p>Bearings come in incremental size:\u00a0 &#8220;Standard,&#8221; &#8220;0.010,&#8221; &#8220;0.020,&#8221; and &#8220;0.030&#8221; inches <em>undersize<\/em>.\u00a0 In short, if the crankshaft journal is smaller (undersize), you need a thicker bearing to make up the space.\u00a0 When crankshafts are balanced, the shop will measure the journals to verify if they conform to spec.\u00a0 You can measure this too, if you have <a href=\"https:\/\/www.amazon.com\/gp\/product\/B000R6S1F8\/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">an outside micrometer set<\/a>.\u00a0 According to the Ford Service Manual in the 7.3 IDI supplemental, here are the journal specification limitations.<\/p>\n<p>Main Bearing Journal Diameter<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Standard Size:\u00a0 3.1228&#8243;-3.1236&#8243;<\/li>\n<li>0.010&#8243; Undersize:\u00a0 3.1128&#8243;-3.1136&#8243;<\/li>\n<li>0.020&#8243; Undersize:\u00a0 3.1028&#8243;-3.1036&#8243;<\/li>\n<li>0.030&#8243;\u00a0 Undersize:\u00a0 3.0928&#8243;-3.0936&#8243;<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Connecting Rod Journal Diameter<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Standard Size:\u00a0 2.498&#8243;-2.499&#8243;<\/li>\n<li>0.010 Undersize:\u00a0 2.488&#8243;-2.489&#8243;<\/li>\n<li>0.020 Undersize:\u00a0 2.478&#8243;-2.479&#8243;<\/li>\n<li>0.030 Undersize:\u00a0 2.468&#8243;-2.469&#8243;<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>If your journal size is worn in between these increments, a machine shop will be needed to grind the journals to the next smaller undersize dimension.\u00a0 Then, the bearings will need to make up that hundredth of an inch.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180125_152929sfw.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\" wp-image-143 alignright\" src=\"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180125_152929sfw.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"401\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180125_152929sfw.jpg 720w, https:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180125_152929sfw-300x169.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 401px) 100vw, 401px\" \/><\/a>While you are waiting for your bearings to arrive, you should pull the crankshaft and get it balanced at a machine shop.\u00a0 But to get it out, the front and rear engine plates should be removed and while they are off, it is a GREAT time to put in new front and rear main seals.\u00a0 The seals on the IDI are notorious for leaking, and while there are some instructions on how to reseal them with the engine still in the vehicle, it is extremely difficult to pull off.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180126_115616sfw.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-144 alignleft\" src=\"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180126_115616sfw.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"201\" height=\"357\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180126_115616sfw.jpg 405w, https:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180126_115616sfw-169x300.jpg 169w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 201px) 100vw, 201px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180126_113850sfw.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignright wp-image-193\" src=\"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180126_113850sfw.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"167\" height=\"354\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180126_113850sfw.jpg 302w, https:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180126_113850sfw-142x300.jpg 142w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 167px) 100vw, 167px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>The front and rear engine plates are rather simple to remove.\u00a0 They are held on by small bolts and basic gaskets.\u00a0 Front Plate, bolts in green (in the image above).<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>I carefully pulled back the plate from the block and pan (if still installed).\u00a0 It comes apart pretty easy if you have the oil pan already removed, but if the pan is still installed, it can really stick to it.\u00a0 Also MAKE SURE to remove the two bolts that thru-bolt through the oil pan and front and rear plates.\u00a0 See the image to the right for one of the locations of the oil-pan-front-plate thru-bolts.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>The same process goes for the rear plate as well.\u00a0 Here is a detailed article on how I detached, replaced the seals, and reattached the front and rear plates:<\/p>\n<blockquote data-secret=\"Fueknqa77V\" class=\"wp-embedded-content\"><p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/engine\/6-9-7-3-idi-front-and-rear-main-seal-replacement\/\">6.9 \/ 7.3 IDI Front and Rear Main Seal Replacement<\/a><\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p><iframe class=\"wp-embedded-content\" sandbox=\"allow-scripts\" security=\"restricted\" style=\"position: absolute; clip: rect(1px, 1px, 1px, 1px);\" src=\"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/engine\/6-9-7-3-idi-front-and-rear-main-seal-replacement\/embed\/#?secret=Fueknqa77V\" data-secret=\"Fueknqa77V\" width=\"600\" height=\"338\" title=\"&#8220;6.9 \/ 7.3 IDI Front and Rear Main Seal Replacement&#8221; &#8212; IDI Online\" frameborder=\"0\" marginwidth=\"0\" marginheight=\"0\" scrolling=\"no\"><\/iframe><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>I pulled the crankshafts and compared them.\u00a0 Turns out the 1988 and 1994 7.3 IDI cranks are the same.\u00a0 Yippie.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180128_115352sfw.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-130\" src=\"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180128_115352sfw.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"720\" height=\"380\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180128_115352sfw.jpg 720w, https:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180128_115352sfw-300x158.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 720px) 100vw, 720px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><em>Installing the New Bearings.<\/em><\/p>\n<p>I&#8217;m not going to go into the process of measuring the clearances.\u00a0 There are lots of great videos on youtube that explain how to do this.\u00a0 I&#8217;m more or less just going to focus on my experiences with the 7.3 IDI engine bearings.\u00a0 My new bearings finally arrived (0.010 size), and I installed them right away.\u00a0 I need to measure to make sure these are the right size for the journals, and if not, reorder a different size or have the crank ground down to a lesser size.<\/p>\n<p>A brief summary of the process is this:<\/p>\n<ol>\n<li>Install the bearings and caps<\/li>\n<li>Torque them to spec<\/li>\n<li>Measure the journal with a micrometer<\/li>\n<li>Use that measurement to set the Bore Gauge<\/li>\n<li>Measure the Bore deviation<\/li>\n<li>Compare against the spec.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<p>I didn&#8217;t use any assembly lube while installing the bearings for the measurement.\u00a0 It was imperative to clean all the surfaces of oil and lint so that the measurements can be perfect.\u00a0 I&#8217;m measuring down to the thousandths of an inch, so a hair or goop of oil will definitely ruin the calculation.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180201_144513sfw.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-147\" src=\"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180201_144513sfw.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"720\" height=\"405\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180201_144513sfw.jpg 720w, https:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180201_144513sfw-300x169.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 720px) 100vw, 720px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>When installing the bearings, make sure to put the UPPER in the block side and the LOWER bearing in the cap side.\u00a0 I was working my block on a stand with the engine upside-down, so the upper was on the bottom and the lower was on the top, but you get the point.\u00a0 Also, I made sure to match up the notch in the block with the key in the bearing.\u00a0 This keeps the bearing from sliding out of the space laterally.\u00a0 And most importantly, I ensured that my oil holes matched up.\u00a0 IF I didn&#8217;t match that up, the crankshaft wouldn&#8217;t be lubricated at all, and the engine would be junk within seconds.<\/p>\n<p>I installed the #3 main cap with bearings and torqued them to the spec.\u00a0 According to the Ford Service Manual, the Main bolts need to be torqued to 95lb-fts, but a side note specified &#8220;Tighten four main bearing cap bolts to 75 lb-ft. (102 N-m) before final torque is applied.&#8221;\u00a0 Then, the spec says the Main Bearing gap needs to 0.0018&#8242;-0.0046&#8243; and the Rod Bearing gap needs to be 0.0011&#8243;-0.0036&#8243;.<\/p>\n<p>Measuring the bore (in the X and Y directions), it was just at the bottom limit of the specification window.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180201_151639sfw.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-148\" src=\"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180201_151639sfw.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"720\" height=\"405\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180201_151639sfw.jpg 720w, https:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180201_151639sfw-300x169.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 720px) 100vw, 720px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>I torqued down the rest of the caps and checked their measurements.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180201_153756sfw.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-149\" src=\"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180201_153756sfw.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"720\" height=\"405\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180201_153756sfw.jpg 720w, https:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180201_153756sfw-300x169.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 720px) 100vw, 720px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignright wp-image-294 size-medium\" src=\"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/03\/20180310_120117sfw-300x228.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"228\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/03\/20180310_120117sfw-300x228.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/03\/20180310_120117sfw-768x583.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/03\/20180310_120117sfw.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/>I&#8217;ll post the calculations chart I made of all the main bearing bores.<\/p>\n<p>Once all the calculations are complete, I measured again against the journal diameters with my micrometer and double checked that my gaps were within spec.\u00a0 After all that, I removed the bearing caps (AGAIN) and lubed the bearings with clean engine oil.\u00a0 They say if the engine is going to sit for a long time, then use general assembly lube to preserve the engine, but for engines intended to be run immediately, use the oil you plan to use in the engine to lube it.\u00a0 After lubing the surfaces, I carefully installed the 1988 7.3 Crank in the 1994 7.3 block.\u00a0 It all fit together according to the spec and still turned after the dual torque process.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180201_163236sfw.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180201_163236sfw.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"720\" height=\"404\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180201_163236sfw.jpg 720w, https:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/20180201_163236sfw-300x168.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 720px) 100vw, 720px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><em>Rods and Pistons<\/em><\/p>\n<p>The rod, piston, ring, and cylinder head work required many follow-up articles.\u00a0 I felt including them in this post would make it unduly long.<\/p>\n<p>For more info, visit these pages:<\/p>\n<blockquote data-secret=\"MpQbrOobps\" class=\"wp-embedded-content\"><p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/fuel-system\/7-3-idi-connecting-rod-and-bearing-work\/\">7.3 IDI Connecting Rod and Bearing Work<\/a><\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p><iframe class=\"wp-embedded-content\" sandbox=\"allow-scripts\" security=\"restricted\" style=\"position: absolute; clip: rect(1px, 1px, 1px, 1px);\" src=\"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/fuel-system\/7-3-idi-connecting-rod-and-bearing-work\/embed\/#?secret=MpQbrOobps\" data-secret=\"MpQbrOobps\" width=\"600\" height=\"338\" title=\"&#8220;7.3 IDI Connecting Rod and Bearing Work&#8221; &#8212; IDI Online\" frameborder=\"0\" marginwidth=\"0\" marginheight=\"0\" scrolling=\"no\"><\/iframe><\/p>\n<p>and<\/p>\n<blockquote data-secret=\"FWXnGg82C1\" class=\"wp-embedded-content\"><p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/engine\/7-3-idi-piston-ring-gap-measurement-custom-grinding-and-proper-installation\/\">7.3 IDI Piston Ring Gap Measurement, Custom Grinding, and Proper Installation<\/a><\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p><iframe class=\"wp-embedded-content\" sandbox=\"allow-scripts\" security=\"restricted\" style=\"position: absolute; clip: rect(1px, 1px, 1px, 1px);\" src=\"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/engine\/7-3-idi-piston-ring-gap-measurement-custom-grinding-and-proper-installation\/embed\/#?secret=FWXnGg82C1\" data-secret=\"FWXnGg82C1\" width=\"600\" height=\"338\" title=\"&#8220;7.3 IDI Piston Ring Gap Measurement, Custom Grinding, and Proper Installation&#8221; &#8212; IDI Online\" frameborder=\"0\" marginwidth=\"0\" marginheight=\"0\" scrolling=\"no\"><\/iframe><\/p>\n<p>and<\/p>\n<blockquote data-secret=\"rfTFUXK2bL\" class=\"wp-embedded-content\"><p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/turbo\/7-3-idi-cylinder-head-head-gasket-and-arp-stud-installation\/\">7.3 IDI Cylinder Head, Head Gasket, and ARP Stud Installation<\/a><\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p><iframe class=\"wp-embedded-content\" sandbox=\"allow-scripts\" security=\"restricted\" style=\"position: absolute; clip: rect(1px, 1px, 1px, 1px);\" src=\"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/turbo\/7-3-idi-cylinder-head-head-gasket-and-arp-stud-installation\/embed\/#?secret=rfTFUXK2bL\" data-secret=\"rfTFUXK2bL\" width=\"600\" height=\"338\" title=\"&#8220;7.3 IDI Cylinder Head, Head Gasket, and ARP Stud Installation&#8221; &#8212; IDI Online\" frameborder=\"0\" marginwidth=\"0\" marginheight=\"0\" scrolling=\"no\"><\/iframe><\/p>\n<p><b>No warranty. You are responsible for your vehicle. For novelty use only. Not responsible for anything or anyone. Not responsible for damage to your vehicle, you, or anyone or anything.<\/b><\/p>\n<p>Copyright 2000-2018\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/\">Nick Pisca<\/a>\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.0001design.com\/\">0001D LLC<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>A while back, I got a spare 7.3 IDI engine out of a 1994 U-haul van.\u00a0 It was a really&#8230;  <a class=\"excerpt-read-more\" href=\"https:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/engine\/7-3-idi-crank-rod-bearing-crisis\/\" title=\"Read 7.3 IDI Crank-Rod Bearing Crisis\">Read more &raquo;<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":122,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[90,89,14,96,88],"tags":[6,50,48,5,49],"aioseo_notices":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/119"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=119"}],"version-history":[{"count":15,"href":"https:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/119\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":388,"href":"https:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/119\/revisions\/388"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/122"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=119"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=119"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.nickpisca.com\/diesel\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=119"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}